5-minute read
Over-processed lashes are something every lash artist encounters at some point. The good news? It is preventable, manageable, and in many cases, fixable!
Let’s break down how to spot it, why it happens, how to prevent it, and what to do if it’s already occurred.
How to Tell if Lashes Are Over-Processed After a Lash Lift
Lashes may be over-processed if you notice:
- Lashes curling too tightly
- Tips curling back and touching the eyelid
- Lashes looking thin, weak, or fragile
In most cases, this means Step 1 cream was left on for too long during the lash lift, especially at the tips.
Why Over-Processing Happens in Lash Lifts (And How to Prevent It)
1. Relying Only on Timing Guides
Timing charts are exactly that: a guide, not a rule.
Every client’s lashes are different, and lash lift processing time can vary depending on:
- Lash thickness
- Porosity
- Previous lash lifts
- Overall lash health
Some lashes may look thin but be strong and stubborn. Others may look thick but be high-porosity and process very quickly.
If lashes were lifted recently, they can appear healthy while actually being more fragile underneath. In these cases, Step 1 must be left on for a much shorter time.
Pro tip: Always perform a flex check instead of relying solely on recommended timing.
2. Lash Tips Process Faster Than the Base
Lash tips are naturally thinner than the base, which means they soften much faster.
Over-processing almost always happens at the tips first, not the roots.
This is why careful placement, minimal product, and frequent checking are key during Step 1.
Step 1 Cream Timing (Example Only)
Think of processing like a gradient:
- Tips may be ready in as little as 3 minutes
- Mid-shaft around 6 minutes
- Base closer to 10 minutes
This is only an example, but it highlights why checking flexibility matters more than watching the clock.
Pro Tip: Adjusting Processing Time Safely
To slow or stop processing:
- Wipe the cream off each section as soon as it’s ready
- To fully stop processing, apply a pH-balancing cream such as Alba Re;Vive cream to protect fragile areas
Over-processing usually occurs during Step 1, not Step 2.
For Step 2 (neutralising), following the brand’s recommended timing is generally safe and necessary.
Even if over-processing occurs during Step 1, Step 2 must still be completed. This step neutralises the chemical action, helps close the hair shaft, and protects both the lash and skin.
What to Do if Lashes Are Already Over-Processed
If your client would like their lashes re-done, it can still be done safely with extra care.
Tips for Re-Lifting Over-Processed Lashes
- Apply Step 1 very sparingly
The more product used, the faster it processes - Do not use cling wrap
- Choose a much larger lash lifting shield to avoid adding too much curl
If the client doesn’t want curl and simply wants lashes closer to their natural state, skip the shield entirely and process the lashes flat on an under-eye pad.
Start checking lash flexibility from around the 2-minute mark, depending on how damaged the lashes are. Do not follow standard timing.
When checking flexibility:
- Use a soft-tipped lash brush or lash applicator, not tweezers
- Be extremely gentle
Apply little to no Step 1 on the tips. A very light brushing is more than enough, as the tips are the most fragile area.
Once the Lashes Feel Soft and Look Straight
- Gently remove the cream immediately using a soft-tip brush
- Wrap the lashes onto the shield (if using one)
- Proceed with Step 2 using the minimum processing time
Add Extra Care
After neutralising, you can leave Alba Re;Vive Cream on separately for around 5 minutes for extra hydration and nourishment.
This helps support the lashes after chemical stress and improves overall lash condition.
Aftercare Recommendations for Clients
To support recovery and healthy regrowth:
- Recommend a lash growth serum for faster, healthier regrowth
- Advise clients to be as gentle as possible with their lashes:
- Avoid rubbing eyes
- Avoid lash curlers
- Avoid harsh cleansing
- Avoid sleeping on their face
Final Thoughts
Over-processing doesn’t mean failure. It’s part of working with real lashes and real clients.
Choosing gentle, high-quality products with nourishing ingredients can help minimise harsh processing and support lash health. Hybrid systems like Alba Re;Set lash lift system are designed to work efficiently while remaining kind to the lashes, making them easier to control and safer to use.
With flex checks, mindful application, and proper aftercare, you can prevent damage, make safe corrections, and maintain healthy lashes long-term.
